I would never, ever consider going to Times Square in New York for New Years Eve. Crushed in a sea of humanity is not my idea of a celebation. Yet there I was on the night of September 3, in the provincial capital of Viterbo, packed into a narrow medieval street waiting with thousands of other people. Every piazza and side street was bursting with anticipation. TV camermen were strategically located to provide constant coverage of the Transport of the Macchina of Santa Rosa, Viterbo's biggest annual event.
The tradition goes back to1258, when, six years after her death, the body of St.Rose, patron saint of Viterbo, was moved from it's original resting place to the church of Santa Maria delle Rose. The Macchina (kind of like a parade float) has evolved over the years from a replica of an alter to its current incarnation - 30 meter tall (about 6-7 stories) aluminum and fiberglass tower lit with 800 candles and 1200 computer controlled LED lights, decorated with angels and crowned with a statue of Santa Rosa herself. Weighing in at 5 tons, it is carried on the shoulders and backs of 100 Porters (Facchini della Macchina) who transport the tower a distance of a bit more than 1 kilometer through the narrow medieval streets. Yes, you read that correctly...100 grown men carry a 5 ton/30 meter tower on their backs through narrow medieval streets for about a half a mile.) People crowd balconies, rooftops and upper story windows to get a glimpse of this marvel as it passes, sometimes so close that a spectator on the balcony could reach out and touch it as it passes. Street lights, shop lights and lights in the apartments are all turned off for maximum effect, as the electric and candle-lit tower passes through the town.
There are 5 stops along the route, where the Macchina is set down on a specially built platform, high enough for the Facchini to carry it safely into place before transferring the 5 ton weight from their shoulders to the scaffold. At each stop, the crowds go wild, cheering the Facchini as they file out from under the Macchina- row by row, with the precision of a military drill team. It is as boisterous and high spirited as an Italian soccer match, and the Facchini are the heroes of the day. The cheering masses scream “Viva Santa Rosa” as the Facchini file back under the Macchina after each stop, to hoist it further along the path to it's final destination.
Popping bottles of Champagne and fireworks mark the end of another years journey for Santa Rosa and the 100 amazing dedicated Facchini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsg6fyk2tYo not our video, but excellent
(Mille grazie to Ivan and Manuela, without whom, we would not have attempted to tackle this event on our own.)
I am so glad you went to this event it is very special and the atmosphere is truly amazing. If you get a chance do go and view close up while it is still outside on display.
ReplyDeleteOur Viterbo friends sent us a video of the event, we wished we were still there and had seen it live. Reminds us a bit of the event in Gubbio where they carry huge "candles" (interesting how these could be interpreted as phallic symbols, eh?)that poke up into the sky with statues of saints on top, then "race" up a steep climb. The "race" is among three candles but the patron saint of Gubbio always wins for some reason. They make it simpler in Viterbo with only one saint to be concerned with. What do they do with this thing after it's put on display for awhile? Store it away until next time, set it on fire?
ReplyDeleteWhat a eye catching sight that must be all lit up at night. The spiraling columns are gracious in design. Hate to think what would happen here if all the lights went out for any length of time.
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ReplyDeleteLinda- yes it was totally unbelievable. We were back in Viterbo the following week, but alas, it was already packed away till next year....
ReplyDeleteL&H - You'll just have to come back next Sept 3. The "Macchina" comes apart and is stored in a warehouse somewhere. They build a huge scaffold in Porto Romana (I think that's where) to re-assemble it.
Mya, There's a competition every 5 years for the design of a new Macchina. The previous one, we're told, had petals that opened and closed to reveal statues of Santa Rosa. This one is in it's second year....3 more to go.
Michael...cant imagine being responsible for 14 people in those crowds...in the dark...in that medieval labrynth...looking forwqrd to the story!