Monday, May 17, 2010

THINGS ITALIANS EAT (in two languages)


When I was about 9 years old, my family lived in Long Island, NY. We were the typical 2nd generation Italian-American family. Mom, Dad, 3 kids, Levittown, little league,catechism. My immigrant grandparents lived in the Bronx and most Sundays, we would drive to visit them, eat pasta and hang out with the cousins while the aunts and uncles yakked it up over a 3 hour meal. Once in a while, usually during the summer months, my grandparents would come out to visit us in the suburbs. It was always a special treat to have them visit, until the day I saw my grandmother out in our yard (and in the neighbors' yards) with a bowl in her arms, picking weeds and tossing them into the bowl. I looked around to see if any of my friends were out and might have witnessed this bizarre spectacle. What the hell was she doing? My mother later explained that she was picking dandelion greens for a salad and that in Italy everyone picked, cooked and ate wild greens. Yuck, I wasn't eating dandelions.

Fast forward lots of years (I'm not telling how many). And here I am in Italy, the guest at a friend's home and I'm invited to go out into the field and...pick weeds...to cook... and eat!! Sheesh! It was cicoria, a dark leafy bitter green that is a very popular vegetable here. So I ended up coming home with about 5 pounds of these weeds in a plastic grocery bag, roots, mud and all. You really need a heavy duty kitchen if you're going to clean and cook weeds because it makes a huge muddy mess in your sink. You know, chopping off the roots (mud and all) then soaking and rinsing the green leafy parts a gazillion times to get off all the residual dirt and any little critters that have hung in there for dear life. (this is not a water-conserving enterprise, cleaning weeds) I do not have a heavy duty kitchen. I have a tiny little kitchen, not much bigger than an airline galley kitchen with one small shallow stainless steel sink. I'm very happy with this kitchen...it's just not meant for weed cleaning.

Finally, I'm satisfied that the greens are clean enough to cook. Now I need to just pick through each leaf, tear off the tough stems, so that we only have to eat the tender weedlings; a time consuming process that leaves about 70% of the original volume of weeds in the trash heap, 30% cook-able. It takes only 2 huge pots to boil the tender weeds. Once they're done, then they need to be drained and the boiled leaves then need to be fried in extra virgin olive oil, garlic and hot pepper flakes. By this time, the original 5 pounds of weeds is reduced to about 16 ounces of actual edible food.

I've eaten this in restaurants, and it's delicious. It is served as a vegetable course (contorno) alone on the plate. I embellished a little and cooked some prosciutto sausage, served it with the cichoria and a hunk of bread and a glass of red wine. Yum.

Quando avevo quasi 9 anni, la mia famiglia abitava a Long Island, NY. Eravamo tipici delle famiglie italo-americane del secondo generazioni. La mamma, il papa', tre figli, Levittown, Piccola Lega, catechismo. I miei nonni erano immigrati dall' Italia e abitavano allo Bronx. Di solito andavamo ogni Domenica di andare a trovargli. Mangiavamo la pasta, e gocavamo insieme con i cuigini, mentre i zii chiacchieravano e mangiavano fino alle 3 ore.Da tanto in tanto, di solito nell'estate, i nonni andavano da noi a compagna. Era sempre una goia quando venivano da noi. Un giorno, pero' ho visto mia nonna nella giardino(e anche negli giardini dei vicini). Aveva nelle braccia una scodella. Stava raccogliendo le erbacce e le stava mettendo nella scodella. Dio mio,che cosa stava facendo?? Fra poco, mia mamma mi ha spiegato che la nonna stava raccogliendo le foglie delle dandelions. Aveva detto che in Italia tutti stanno raccolto, cotto e mangiato le erbacce. Boh!! non sto mangiando io le erbacce!

Andate subito avanti tanti anni (non sto dicesndo io quante). Eccomi qui in Italia. Sono l'ospita alla casa degli amici e glieme dicevano di andare nel campo per......raccogliere le erbacce...di cuocere...e di mangiare!!! Mahhhh!!

Cicoria e' una vegetale fogliata, verde scura e amara. E' molto mangiata qui in Italia. Allora, al fine del giorno, ho arrivato a casa con un sacco di erbaccie....quasi 3 chili incluso il fango.

Se dovete pulire e cuocere le erbacce, avete bisogno di una cucina grande e durevole perche' si fanno un grand casino fangoso nella vasca. Sapete, tagliando i radici (con il fango), poi bagnando e risciaquando le foglie verde tantissimi volte di rimovere tutta la sporcizia e qualsiasi cimice che rimangono. (si sta pulendo le erbaccie non e' amicevole del ambiente...si sta usendo molto l'acqua). Io non ho la cucina grande e durevole. Ho la cucina piccolissima e carina, come quello che si trova nell'aereo. C'e una piccola vasca d'acciaio inossidabile. Mi piace molto questa cucina.....ma non funzione bene per pulire le erbaccie.

Finalmente, sono soddisfatto che le erbaccie sono abbastanza pulita di cucinare. Ora, devo togliare le foglie per scegliere quelle piu' buone, piu' delicate. Cosi, mangeremo solo le erbaccissimi. Ci vuole tanto tempo che al fine, produrre 70% delle erbacce originale da spazzatura e 30% da mangiare. Ci vuole due grandissime pentole di bollire le erbacce delicate. Poi, dovete buttare l'acqua. Poi, mette le erbacce bollite nella pentola con olio d'olive, aglio e pepperoncino. Quando sono pronti, l'originale 3 chili d'erbacce sono ridotti di quasi 500 gr di cibo commestibile.

Questo contorno ho avuto mangiato negli ristoranti. E' buonissimo. Di solito e' mangiato da solo, pero' l'ho preparato con un po' di salsiccia di prociutto e l'ho servito con pane rustico e un bicchiere di vino rosso. Stupendo!

6 comments:

  1. We enjoy this weed now, but can remember how strange we thought it was the first time we gathered it with our neighbours.

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  2. Just to be sure I understood, I looked up "cicoria" and the article said it was the "True Italian Dandelion," but not the same as the dandelions here in America. However, you can eat those and make tea also.
    When you return to the states you can continue your culinary specialty, because cicoria seeds are sold in packages. Wonder what else we might be tramping on that we could be eating?

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  3. We love cicoria! Still remember the first time we saw grown men (Italian truck drivers) ordering panini stuffed with this green (weed as you call it) and a slice of cheese. Grown men eating greens, and only greens? Americans have some things still to learn!

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  4. I too have a cicoria story. Picture it...the Atlantic City Expressway, my dad driving his big El Dorado, and me, his little girl (literally 7), sitting in the front seat. Dad pulls over, grabs a screwdriver out of the glove compartment and gets out of the car to start picking dandelions. Totally mortified I watched as a State Trooper pulled up behind us with his lights flashing. He told my dad that it was not legal to just pull over on the side of the road and start picking weeds when my dad quickly corrected him and gave him a lesson in the uses of dandelion. I could have died!!!

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  5. I love cicoria, but then I have never had to go hunt it in the wild. I always bought it at the daily vegetable market. There were inevitable sheathes of grass or barley that got picked along with the greens. It was so fresh and yummy. On this side of the ocean, my grandpa used to make dandelion wine!

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  6. Linda - From now on, I'll just buy it at the greengrocer. It's just too much work otherwise.

    Mya - Not sure I ever saw cicoria in the states, but the old italians were resourceful and found tasty substitutes.

    Larry&Heather - Not very macho....veggie panini.

    Giovanna - What a hilarious story. I can just picture your dad with his screwdriver! I used to think my nonni were a little "odd" until I came to Italy the first time and discovered that they were totally normal...for Italy. Haaaaa!!

    Valerie - I'm not going cicoria hunting anymore. The market willdo very nicely thank you. Dandelion wine??? My grandfather made anisette. (which I hate) see ya soon.

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