Thursday, February 25, 2010

THE FOUR RULES (plus one)

We realized many years ago that enjoying life in Italy requires adopting a certain mindset. So, in the spirit of brevity and good blogsmanship (is that a word?) we’ve distilled years of travel, hours of research, and conversations with fellow other experienced Italophiles into “The Four Rules” for living in Italy.

  1. Simple tasks cannot be completed efficiently or within a reasonable amount of time.
  2. Documented instructions and procedures will change without notice or reason.
  3. Previous experiences are unreliable models for future dealings.
  4. Ambiguity drives communications and flexibility is the key to enjoying the ride.

So, plan for the worst, hope for the best and be prepared to adjust your expectations. Set aside feelings of frustration, urgency and defeat. Embrace the concept that whatever must be accomplished today will wait until tomorrow…or next week…or next month…or never. When all else fails exercise the unwritten Fifth Rule…find the nearest gelato shop and order four scoops.

If the next year is anything like our previous Italian adventures, we’re sure to have some informative and funny anecdotes as well as remembering some past experiences about…

Goats in the Road

Finding His Italian Roots

Where’s the AC?

The $10 Mellon

Taxi Napolitano

Small Change

Connecting With Locals

Maps versus GPS

To all our web friends (you know who you are) who have led the way, provided valuable advice and inspired us, we say “grazie mille”.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Our Background


The seeds of what was to become our dream to live in Italy were planted long before we met in college. Growing up in parallel New York suburbs, we had baby-boomer childhoods - Sunday dinners at the table of immigrant grandparents, with all the aunts, uncles and cousins - enjoying the food and stories that blended American and southern Italian traditions. We met at Virginia Tech in 1970 courtesy of our blond, blue-eyed roommates who thought we belonged together...little did they know!

After graduation, we got married and Bill was drafted into the Army where his services were required at NATO’s Southern Region Headquarters in Napoli. We rented an apartment in Pozzuoli and the seeds of our Italian-American childhood took root as we embraced the eccentricities of life in Naples.

Being in the military eased the culture shock somewhat. With guidance from American and British military folks and some friendly locals, we learned the coping skills needed to make the most of our experience. Living and working in Naples provided the contacts, opportunities and serendipity that quickly transformed us into committed Italophiles.

Our affection for Italy did not end with our return to the US in 1975. Over the next 35 years we returned to familiar places - Naples, Ischia and the Amalfi Coast. We felt connected to a part of Italy that our grandparents would have recognized; albeit transformed by time, two world wars and a level of prosperity unimaginable in their time.

Fast-forward to 2009: We sold our house, launched our son into the real world and retired to Central Florida where now we're preparing to “live the dream”. We hope you'll come back often to share in our adventure. Andiamo!!!

A Stack of Books

In 1974 we moved to Italy for a two-year Army assignment at the NATO Headquarters in Naples. It was a wonderful experience but we didn't take full advantage of the opportunity because we were simply unprepared, naive and uneducated.

Like many Italian-Americans, we thought we knew what being “Italian” meant…WRONG! Separated by time, language and almost no understanding of our grandparents’ lives before they immigrated to America, we quickly realized that we were painfully ignorant of the people, language (dialects) and cultures (yes, the regional Italian cultures are different). Had all of today's books been available back then, our time living in Italy would have been even richer and more enjoyable.

Our grandparents didn’t keep journals or write many letters, so we don’t know the details of their lives in Italy, their journey to America, or their relationships with family and friends they left behind. All we had were a few stories told at the dinner table. So, we figured our only option was to read about Italy as it was during our ancestors’ lifetimes.

We’re not scholars or intellectual heavy-weights but we enjoy reading everything we can about Italy…history, language, travel, memoirs, cookbooks, novels, etc. Our little library contains dozens of books worth reading, but here are a few to consider before hopping the plane and while traveling in Italy.

A Concise History of Italy by Christopher Duggan (Cambridge University Press, 1984). This 294 page paperback’s opening chapter describes how Italy’s geography and topography set the stage for the major military, cultural and political events beginning in the year 400 AD and ending in the 1980s. Chapter 6 is titled “The Liberal State and the Social Question, 1870 – 1900” – the period in Italy that most influenced the lives of our great-grandparents and their children who immigrated to America.

A Traveller’s History of Italy (8th Edition) by Valerio Lintner (Interlink Publishing, 2008). Having read the previous edition published in 2004, I’m looking forward to re-reading this book’s 8th Edition. This author’s narrative is comfortable and easy to follow because he matches historically important individuals to the geography, political and social events that shaped the Italy of our ancestors. It allows the reader to “jump around” and focus on the individual chapters that are relevant to reader’s travel itinerary and interests.

The Italians by Luigi Barzini (Touchstone Edition, 1996). Barzini was a second generation Italian journalist, born in Milan, in 1908. He wrote extensively about the social, political and cultural character of Italy with an understandable bias; most notably in Chapter 13, “The Problema del Mezzogiorno”. Barzini’s description of the Italian people was as if he was a regular guest in our grandparents’ homes; not always kind, his observations really hit close to the heart.

La Bella Lingua: My Love Affair with Italian, the World's Most Enchanting Language by Diane Hales (Broadway Books, 2009). The book is a “must read” for those of us who are too lazy to learn Italian or who don’t know how and why the Italian language became the most beautiful language in world. Ms. Hales blends her passion for Italian with history, humor and engaging conversations with many interesting Italian language experts. Her personal and endearing anecdotes are inspiring for those of us who never seem to get it right.

SPREZZATURA, 50 Ways Italian Genius Shaped The World by Peter D’Epiro and Mary Desmond Pinkowish (Anchor Books, 2001). This book links the contributions of famous Italians to the political, cultural, artistic, scientific and social events that shaped Italy and the world. The word Sprezzatura was coined by Renaissance diplomat and soldier Balassare Castiglione which, according to a translation by Harry Berger, Jr. means, “a form of defensive irony: the ability to disguise what one really desires, feels, thinks, and means or intends behind a mask of apparent reticence and nonchalance.” It has also been used to describe the ability to complete a task or create great art gracefully and seemingly effortlessly…a very Italian trait.

LA MERICA, Images of Italian Greenhorn Experience by Michael La Sorte (Temple University Press, 1985). The author combines some personal stories of Italian immigrants with academic research and entertaining anecdotes that describes the common experiences of millions who left behind everything they knew and everyone they loved for new opportunities in “La Merica”.

Blue Guide Series for Northern, Central, and Southern Italy, Le Marche, Sicily, Umbria, etc. by various authors (Somerset Books, various editions). The Blue Guides’ website at www.blueguides.com contains the complete list for their Italy Series. These guides to Italy’s regions and major cities contain concise yet detailed narratives that provide historical context and useful touring information and descriptions for museums, churches, hotels, restaurants, shopping and transportation. If you’re planning an extended trip to multiple regions, you might need an extra rolling suitcase for this collection…but they are worth it!